In Figure 2, the dimensions for the end of the keel can be confusing. At station 13, the top nail is located 3 - 3/8" above the reference line. The bottom nail is located 1/2" ABOVE the reference line. Got it?
Here's where it gets confusing.The end of the keel is located 5 - 5/8" past station 13 at the very top edge of the 1 x 12. Make a mark at this point, and when you're drawing in the line using the batten against the nails, make sure it extends to this mark and gives you a smooth transition.
The keel stern-block to stem dimension isn't 154 3/8". Where did I screw up?
This measurement is taken after the deadwood is installed. The deadwood "raises" the joint where the keel meets the stem by 3 - 1/2". You can try measuring before putting in the deadwood with a metal tape and locating it 3 - 1/2" above the keel-to-stem joint, but you have to keep the tension very tight. (The reason people miss this is that in Figure 2, there is a call-out to the "STEM/KEEL JOINT" before the deadwood is installed.) If you are about 2" too short without the deadwood, then you'll be OK when it is installed.
Think Safety!
Boat building involves inherently dangerous activities, and each builder must be responsible for his own safety. Information presented in our Shop Tips pages are "builder to builder" communications, rather than from experts in the use of tools or techniques. We encourage all builders to read manufacturer’s instructions, follow all safety precautions, and be pro-active in seeking out more information on reducing the risk of injury or illness. I'm confused about the angle of the front of the deadwood. Most of us don't find this error, because we make the keel, and set the deadwood stock next to it and mark it off live. But here's the scoop: The stem/keel joint does indeed fall 1" forward of Station 1 in the illustration on the left. But in the illustration for the deadwood on the right, it shows the top corner of the deadwood 2 7/8" from STATION 1. It really should be 2 7/8" forward of the bottom corner, or where the stem/keel joint falls. It looks like the measurement line from Station 1 was extended up instead of the line indicating the position 1" in front of Station 1. So you add 1" from Station 1 to the measurement, making it 3 7/8" from Station 1. Or, 2 7/8" from the lower corner of the deadwood. If your head now hurts, you can do what the rest of us do: wait until the keel is ready and lay the deadwood stock next to the keel, and mark it that way. Then you know it will fit.
I can't get both bulkheads cut out of the same piece of plywood. I went to the trouble of drawing out the bulkheads on butcher paper, then arranging them on the plywood to make it fit. Phil Gowans, who did a beautiful job on his Weekender, used a cad program and provides the illustrations on his web site (here's the direct link to that page: Plywood Layout. Phil made a lot of other modifications, which are worth taking a look at, so check out his entire site: Phil's Weekender
At the foredeck, I have these little gaps where it meets the cabin/cockpit. The foredeck is "five sided," and you're right, there will be gaps there when the deck is completed. Relax. Some builders wait until the sides are on and put small pieces of plywood there, or fill it with body putty, or use an epoxy/wood flour mixture to fill it in. The plans don't mention it here, but this also happens when you put the cabin trunk sides on ... there are some small triangular pieces you have to add in. By that time you're comfortable with it, but it can be disconcerting the first time you venture into "fill and sand" land.