Forrest Woodworker II Blade

[Frank Hagan]

I just received my new Forrest Woodworker II blade ... a 1/8" regular version this time instead of the thin kerf style I had before.

Some of you may remember that I destroyed my thin kerf blade cutting ABS couplings for mast rings.  Three of the teeth broke off and one flew past my head.  My fault, really, as soft plastics should be cut with a steel blade, not a carbide tipped one.

Its been a few years, but I miss the quality of cut I got from the Forrest blade.  I've been using a Freud combo blade, and it works fine.  But the Forrest blade was just a step above that.  Once I get it installed, I'll post an update here comparing it to the Freud, as well as my recollection of the thin kerf blade.

[P Doug (WA)]

That is one I have not heard before.  What is the deal with cutting plastic with a carbide blade?  I have done it, but very little.   I did not know that was a no no.

[Frank Hagan]

I guess the problem is with soft plastics like the ABS you find in DWV couplings ... the material is so soft that it starts to melt, which binds the blade.  In my case, it broke off one tooth, and then the next tooth slammed into the broken tooth and was broken off; the third tooth hit just as the plastic was "exploding" in my hands so it flew up past my head.  Three teeth in succession broken off the blade.

Since then, I've heard that a standard steel blade is better, even one mounted backwards in the arbor.  The idea is that less aggressive cutting is needed.

I've never had any trouble with sheet plastic before, but the thicker couplings did cause problems.  Now I use the band saw for any of these kinds of cuts ... I feel much safer on it than I do the table saw.

[capt jake]

I set the blade backards when cutting plastics and never have a problem.  Feed it slowly.

[Frank Hagan]

I did see a thing on a plastics site that said carbide blades were OK, but you needed to use a blade without a lot of set, or offset, to the teeth.  Not sure how the Forrest WWII blade is in terms of set ... I'll have to take a look at it.

The blade was 3 years old when it failed, so it wasn't a warranty thing.  It was pretty alarming when it happened!

[capt jake]

I have never had the opportunity to try any of the Forrest blades.  I guess I am too cheap. I have been using the 'Marathon' carbide tipped blades.  they are now made by Irwin.  Relatively cheap at about $20, but I have found them to be very versatile and perform well.  I may have to buck up and buy a 'designer' blade one of these years.

[Frank Hagan]

I think I'll do a "rip test" in both oak and a softwood like phillipine mahogany before and after I replace the blade.  I'm using a pretty good Freud blade; I've heard really good things about their $60 "Glue Line Rip" blade too, but I haven't tried it.

[Bill]

I've always wanted to try a forrest blade. I have a freud thin kerf right now that has been fine, but, it's time for a new blade. Be interested on how yours works out...